How much RV antifreeze do I need — and what’s the right order?

Pick your RV class and method. You’ll get the gallons of antifreeze to buy and a printable, step-by-step checklist tailored to your rig — including the water pump, black-tank flush line, and city-water inlet check valve that most online guides skip and that crack hardware every winter.

Which should I pick?

Blow-out alone can leave residual water pooled in low spots, valves, and the pump — in hard-freeze climates, “Both” is the safest. Note: Keystone’s “4–6 gal” figure is for their fresh-tank-pour variant, so it isn’t comparable to this tool’s pump-direct numbers.

Features on your rig
What this tool does and doesn’t do.

Stock up

You’ll need RV/marine non-toxic antifreeze (the pink stuff) and, if you’re going the air route, a blow-out adapter. Search RV antifreeze on Amazon.

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Methodology & sources

The gallon estimate starts from a per-class base for the pump-through method with the water heater bypassed, then adds small amounts for extra fixtures and appliances, plus one quart per P-trap and two quarts for the toilet, and a half-gallon buffer (antifreeze is sold by the jug). The single biggest variable is the water-heater bypass: skipping it on a tank heater adds 6 or 10 gallons. The air method uses no bulk antifreeze — only the P-trap/toilet reserve.

The checklist order and the freeze-critical steps (clearing the water pump on the air method, the black-tank flush line, and the city-water inlet check valve on the pump method) follow the manufacturer and retailer guides below. Every number is drawn from these sources.

Tool data REV . Refreshed seasonally against the sources above.